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Craving a Captain's Platter

My son Tyler called with important news from Baton Rouge, where his band was playing a gig.

“Dad,” he said, “I just had the best seafood dinner of my life. The ‘Captain’s Platter’.”

He went on to describe it, but he didn’t have to. Fried gulf shrimp. Fried gulf oysters. Fried scallops. Fried fish, probably gulf snapper. French fries. Cole slaw. Lots of lemon.

“Damn,” I said, in complete admiration, which, of course, incorporated resentment. “Reminds me of the best lunch I ever had.”

“Yeah, I knew it would,” he said.

That was in 1978, and Tyler wasn’t there. He was only two at the time. But I have told him about it often enough. Monsieur’s No. 2, a dark, high-ceiling, shotgun space in downtown Shreveport, LA. A dozen oysters on the half-shell, shucked right there at the bar. A platter of fried gulf shrimp. An oyster po’ boy, which is the one item I would take to a deserted island with me. Fries, slaw, and pints of beer.

I couldn’t finish it today. Oh, the dozen on the half-shell, sure. And the oyster po’ boy, without a doubt: fried oysters on a soft French roll with shredded lettuce and cocktail sauce. But I might manage only three or four of the shrimp, just a couple of fries, a bite of slaw. A glass of red wine instead of beer. We have to listen to our bodies as we grow older.

Which brings me to my problem. Since Tyler hung up, I have been craving a Captain’s Platter. In Baton Rouge, you can find one on every street corner. In San Diego, the market for fried seafood is less demanding. I did have a nice plate of fried calamari at the Fish Market last week. They started calling calamari the “poor man’s abalone” 25 years ago when abalone, which may be the best bite of food you will ever put in your mouth, became so scarce that it went to $35 on local menus and then disappeared altogether. It was back on the menu last week at the Fish Market, but the price now is $69.50.

Do you know how many Captain’s Platters you could buy in Baton Rouge for $69.50?

Mike,
There was a place in Pensacola called Mammy's (yes that WAS the name--this being 1959) that featured the best fried seafood I've had to this day. I also remember great corn on the cob. They had communal seating on redwood picnic tables.

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  • I am a journalist, educator, writing consultant and author, living in La Mesa, CA. I am a native of Texas, which shows in most of my work. I believe that anything is possible. When I was 35, I realized that the ideal life would be to have the imagination of a six-year-old, and the wisdom of a 65-year-old. I can still get to the imagination (as you can, simply by cutting away all the data you’ve learned from first grade on) and I now possess the wisdom of a 65-year-old. Being 65 can be unsettling – too late to plant trees and enjoy the shade – but the wisdom that comes with it is terrific compensation. I learned in 50th grade that, no matter how bad things get, there is always compensation. Now I am in the 60th grade, and I am learning things that I didn’t know in 59th. This September, I’ll start 61st grade, and learn things I don’t know now. To find what grade you’re in, start with the year you started 12th grade, and count up. My newest book is “Warbirds – How They Played the Game.” My new company is The Write Outsource, quality media writing on deadline, at www.writeoutsource.com. I am working on a book about the media, and I am about to revise my cookbook about home cooking on a tight budget, such as so many of us face at this time.
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